Watch the video here.
I awoke in the dark on Day 8, confused about why the sun was taking so long to rise. That is when I finally clued in that my watch/phone had switched over to Alberta time.
I had been concerned about waking up to rain and snow, but the day was calm and conditions were dry. I thanked the universe with gifting me an extension of the good weather.
The next several kilometres of trail traversed cross-country over mountain passes and across alpine bowls. There was no trail, but travel was relatively straightforward once you figured out which spot on the horizon you were aiming for. Although there was no scrambling, the terrain was surprisingly treacherous, with very little flat footing. Plant growth concealed boulders and holes that could easily result in a turned ankle or broken leg. Travel over the cols usually involved hopping along very large rocks. It took all my concentration to ensure I didn’t slip or overturn a boulder. In this remote terrain, rescue would be very slow and it was unlikely anyone would find me to provide assistance.
The awkward footing was made worthwhile by the incredible views. I was never bored and always in awe of my surroundings. At one point I slipped and snapped my pole, but I continued onward. The weather remained perfect until my final climb up to the Holmes tarns. A cloud bank rolled in and suddenly I was in a whiteout. Thankfully, I was well-practiced with this routine and I had all my layers on before getting hit by the storm.
The initial storm was short-lived and I was able to enjoy views of the tarns, and catch a glimpse of a couple of nimble mountain goats before the rain returned in earnest. I was now only a few kilometres from rejoining the main GDT trail, and I hurried across the rocky terrain. The weather was nasty and there was no shelter. Thankfully my pack was very light (I had eaten all my food except a handful of trail mix) so I was able to move unencumbered.
I was in and out of the rain for the rest of the hike. The Blueberry Lake trail had deteriorated into a total mud pit due to the wet weather combined with equestrian traffic. I wiped out several times on my descent, and tightened my shoes so that the wouldn’t get sucked off in the bog. I ran into a couple of horseback riders halfway down the trail and we had a good chat. They knew the equestrian girls who were riding to Grand Cache, and had come in to do a little maintenance on the Jackpine Valley trail. I was concerned about my car, leaving it for a week in the wilderness was nerve-wracking for me, but they assured me it was undisturbed.
Finally, I reached the Blueberry Lake trailhead. I was covered in mud and soaked to the bone, but my soul was full. I had left a towel, dry clothes, snacks and Coke in my vehicle. It felt incredible to put on a clean pair of sweats and stuff my face with all the high-calorie foods.
Some reflections:
Surprisingly I never felt lonely on this trip. I became very comfortable talking out loud to myself and discovered that I’m perfectly capable of carrying on a one-person conversation.
I think I could enjoy even longer solo trips, but food weight is a limiting factor. I don’t enjoy carrying a heavy pack, and this trip was near my max weight/bulk. If I want to explore further, I’ll need to either have a resupply point or travel in warmer weather when a stove/fuel isn’t necessary. Even in that scenario, stove and fuel probably only take up the space of one day’s food.
I’m not a huge fan of stoves, but I’m glad I was convinced to bring one this time around. I would have been miserably cold without it.
Thermal tights are amazing. Rather than bringing waterproof pants, I just brought winter tights. These tights are fairly thick, and still insulate when wet. They kept me warm, packed small, and didn’t snag or tear on branches. I don’t think I’ll bother with rain pants in the future.
Joanna Runs 